Sounds so cliche, but it's so true. We first heard it in elementary school. As we grew up, we find that reading is just as fundamental at work as it is trying to assemble a file cabinet from Ikea. NOW we have to read the ingredients of our food and personal care products. It started with the food. Apparently, it's perfectly legal to put a derivative of plastic in food (aka margarine) and feed it to unsuspecting Americans so that it can be produced cheaply and sit longer on the shelf before we eat it. Personally, if it doesn't mold, I don't want to eat it. But you can't stop at the food. You have to read what's in your personal hygiene products too. WHY?Well, let's think about this now. There are medications that are administered through the skin. That means, that compounds that make contact with your skin penetrate it and make it to your blood stream. That's deep. If I can put a Nicotine patch on my arm and it helps curve my smoking addiction. That means that the medication on the patch gets to my blood stream, through my skin. The same thing with the birth control patch. Then there are poisons and highly addictive drugs that are administered by putting it on the skin. No pills, no snorting, no smoking, no eating. Just by putting it on your skin. With that being said, this is why it's just as important to read the labels on your body as what you're putting in your body.
- Formaldehyde: Formaldehyde is intentionally added to some products, such as keratin hair straighteners. Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (FRPs) such as quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, polyoxymethylene urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, bromopol and glyoxal are also widely used in personal care products including nail polish, eye shadow, mascara, nail treatment, shampoo and blush for the prevention of bacterial growth. FRPs are designed to release formaldehyde slowly and constantly over time to act as a preservative. IARC, the National Toxicology Program (NTP) and California EPA’s Proposition 65 (Prop 65) classify formaldehyde as a human carcinogen. EPA identifies formaldehyde as a probable human carcinogen. The National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) also raises concern that exposure to formaldehyde leads to irritation of the eyes, nose, throat and respiratory system. Standards for cosmetics in Japan prohibit formaldehyde use in cosmetics,and the European Commission restricts formaldehyde in cosmetics to no more than five percent concentration in the finished product.
- Phenacetin: Phenacetin was used as pain and fever reducer until banned in the US by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1983 due to its carcinogenicity. Although it is no longer used as a drug, it is still occasionally used in personal care products as a stabilizer in products such as facial hair bleach, hair color and women’s depilatories. IARC and Prop 65 identify phenacetin as a human carcinogen. NTP lists that phenacetin and analgesic mixtures containing phenacetin are reasonably anticipated to be human carcinogens. Phenacetin can also cause renal damage and anemia. Exposure to phenacetin has been linked malignant mammary tumors.
- Coal Tar: Coal tar is a known carcinogen and a by-product from coal processing. It is used in cosmetics containing hair dyes, shampoos, dandruff/scalp treatment and redness/rosacea treatment. IARC, NTP and EPA classify coal tar as a known human carcinogen. Coal tar was one of the first occupational exposures linked to cancer; when scrotal cancer among young chimney sweeps was associated with exposure. It is also associated with cancers of the lung, bladder, kidney, and digestive tract. Environmental Canada classifies that coal tar pitch is persistent and inherently toxic to aquatic organisms. European Commission prohibits coal tar use in cosmetics. Coal tars are complex mixtures that can contain other known carcinogens, such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), such as benzo[a]pyrene. PAHs damage DNA, and exposure to PAHs can lead to tumors on lungs, bladder and skin; and PAHs can also cause non-cancer toxicities like reproductive and developmental toxicity.
- Benzene: Benzene is derived from coal tar, and exposure routes of benzene are inhalation and ingestion. Benzene is used in the production of plastics and detergents and occasionally in hair conditioner and styling lotion. IARC and NTP classify benzene as a known human carcinogen. Prop 65 identifies benzene as a concern for both cancer and developmental toxicity, and benzene can lead to mammary tumors in female mice. EPA identifies benzene as a known human respiratory toxicant. Benzene is considered a priority pollutant of wastewater by EPA, which means environmental releases of benzene are regulated. The Endocrine Disruption Exchange considers benzene as an endocrine disruptor. Occupational exposure to benzene is linked to leukemia; and benzene can target organs including eyes, skin, respiratory system, blood, central nervous system and bone marrow. The European Commission prohibits benzene use in cosmetics, and it is restricted in the Convention for the Protection of the Marine Environment of the North-East Altantic (OSPAR).
- Mineral Oils: Mineral oils are derived from crude oil; and mildly refined mineral oils always contain significant amounts of PAHs. Mineral oils are common in a wide array of personal care products, including eye shadow, moisturizer, lip gloss, lipstick, conditioner, hair color and bleaching, facial treatment, styling gel/lotion, blush and concealer. IARC, NTP and Prop 65 classify untreated and mildly treated mineral oils as a known human carcinogen. NIOSH raises concerns that mineral oils can target organs including eyes, skin, and respiratory system though inhalation, or skin and eye contact.
- Ethylene Oxide: Ethylene oxide is a possible impurity in personal care products as a byproduct of the process of ethoxylation, which is used to buffer the harsh effects of some sudsing agents; Ethylene oxide is most widely used to sterilize medical instruments. It can be found in tobacco smoke, automobile exhausts, and foods.There is strong evidence that ethylene oxide can lead lymphatic and hematopoietic cancers; and some studies found increased incidence of breast cancer in exposed workers. Prop 65 identifies ethylene oxide as a concern for both cancer and developmental toxicity in both females and males. The Endocrine Disruption Exchange lists ethylene oxide as an endocrine disruptor. NIOSH concludes that ethylene oxide leads peritoneal cancer and leukemia; exposure to ethylene oxide through inhalation, ingestion, and skin and eye contact can disrupt respiratory system, central nervous system, and reproductive system. The European Commission prohibits ethylene oxide use in cosmetics.
- Heavy Metals: Heavy Metals like hexavalent chromium, and cadmium serve as colorants in eye shadow and lip gloss. Other metals such as arsenic are impurities in cosmetic ingredients including facial lotion, shampoo, and foundation as a result of arsenic contamination in ingredients such as D&C Red 6, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, and polyvinyl acetate. And let's not forget Aluminum chloride being used as an antiperspirant being directly linked to causing cancer. IARC, the National Toxicology Program and California’s Prop 65 identify cadmium and its compounds, arsenic, and chromium as human carcinogens; in addition, chromium can also lead to developmental problems in both females and males.
- Cadmium: In addition to its carcinogenic properties, cadmium targets the cardiovascular, renal, neurological, reproductive and respiratory systems through inhalation and ingestion. Standards for cosmetics in Japan and European Commission prohibit use of cadmium compounds in cosmetics.
- Arsenic (Also allowed in American chicken feed. Like I said, don't get me started on the crap they put in our food): The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) concludes that there is sufficient evidence that arsenic is a carcinogen; and arsenic can also lead hyperpigmentation, keratosis and possible vascular complications. EPA lists arsenic as a priority pollutant and regulates arsenic emissions; The Endocrine Disruption Exchange suggests that arsenic can cause endocrine disruption. NIOSH demonstrates that exposure to arsenic leads to lung and lymphatic cancer; because it can target organs including liver, kidneys, skin, lungs and lymphatic system through inhalation, skin absorption, skin and eye contact, and ingestion. The European Commission prohibits arsenic in cosmetics.
- Chromium: The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) lists chromium as a carcinogen and mutagen. NIOSH indicates that exposure to chromium leads to lung cancer; and the metal targets organs including blood, respiratory system, liver and kidneys. It can cause increased blood leukocytes, eye injury, and skin ulcers through inhalation, ingestion, and skin and eye contact. EPA considers chromium to be both bioaccumulative and ecotoxic. The European Commission prohibits chromium use in cosmetics.
- Silica: Silica occurs in two different forms: crystalline or amorphous; quartz is the common mineral in crystalline silica. If you breathe crystalline silica in is an airborne contaminant that can penetrate the lung when it is inhaled. Crystalline silica is widely used in lipsticks, lip gloss, eye shadow, eye liner, foundation, sunscreen, lotion and shampoo. NTP and IARC both list crystalline silica of respirable size as a known human carcinogen, and Prop 65 classifies silica, crystalline (airborne particles of respirable size) as a carcinogen. NIOSH raises concerns about lung cancer in animals exposed to crystalline silica; and this chemical can target eyes and the respiratory system through inhalation, and skin and eye contact.
The FDA has a job to protect us but ultimately, we have to protect ourselves. We haven't even touched phthalates and parabens. The cosmetics industry is not as heavily regulated as someone may think, which is why it's legal for me to make cosmetics in my kitchen and sell them to you. However, because I am a science geek, my products are properly labeled with all ingredients listed. I choose ingredients that come from a plant source because I care. I take advantage of the anti-microbial benefits of my ingredients instead of using harmful additives to prolong the shelf life of Fancy Free Hair & Skin products. Think about it, would you want to eat something that was still "fresh" after sitting for 3 years? If bacteria, mold, and bugs don't want to eat it, you shouldn't eat it. Same for cosmetics and other things you put on our skin and hair.
The foundation of what I do is because I want people to live a healthier life, whether you buy Fancy Free Hair & Skin products or not.
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